Two axes, four routines
Curl type is the variable everyone talks about and it is not the one that predicts what works. Two others do.
Strand thickness decides how much weight your hair can carry before it goes flat. Pull out a strand and roll it between your fingers: barely detectable is fine, like a piece of thread is coarse.
Porosity decides whether product gets in or sits on top — the test takes five minutes.
Those two give four combinations, and the routines below differ substantially from one another. Curl type then adjusts the styling products, not the underlying routine.
Fine + low porosity
The combination most likely to complain that nothing works. Hair rejects product because the cuticle is closed, and what does stay on the surface flattens it.
- Light, properly cleansing shampoo, often — daily is fine.
- Conditioner on the ends only, rinsed thoroughly.
- A lightweight leave-in spray, ends only, small amount.
- Mask every two weeks at most, with gentle warmth to get it in.
- Clarify every two weeks. Non-negotiable for this combination.
- Skip oils and butters entirely, or two drops on the very ends.
Fine + high porosity
Usually fine hair that has been bleached or heat-damaged. It drinks product but cannot carry weight, which is an awkward pair of constraints.
- Gentle sulfate-free shampoo, on the scalp.
- Conditioner on the ends, every wash.
- A leave-in treatment rather than a rich cream — you want the repair without the weight.
- Alternate protein and moisture weekly, and watch for stiffness — the balance is here.
- One or two drops of a light oil on the ends only, to seal.
- Clarify every three weeks.
Coarse + low porosity
Strong, healthy hair that is frustrating to work with. It can carry weight but will not absorb anything.
- Normal shampoo, once or twice a week.
- Conditioner along the length.
- Weekly mask with heat — shower cap plus a warm towel.
- Leave-in on soaking wet hair, while the cuticle is most receptive.
- Lighter oils only — argan, grapeseed. Skip the butters.
- Clarify monthly.
Coarse + high porosity
The thirstiest combination, common on coily hair and on anything heavily processed. It takes as much as you give it.
- Co-wash or a very gentle sulfate-free shampoo, once a week or less.
- Conditioner root to tip, generously.
- Weekly mask, alternating protein and moisture.
- Leave-in, then cream, then oil or butter to seal — all on soaking wet hair.
- Reapply moisture between washes with a water spray bottle.
- Clarify monthly, because heavy products build up even here.
From the picks
Three products that cover most of these
A weightless cleanser for the fine routines, a rich mask for the coarse ones, and a spray leave-in that works across all four because you control the dose.
VEVerbNo product photograph available for the Verb Ghost Shampoo
Best for fine hair
Verb Ghost Shampoo
A weightless cleanser built for fine hair rather than adapted to it. Verb states the full Ghost line is clinically proven to reduce frizz by 79% when used together, which is a claim about the range, not this bottle alone.
BRBriogeoNo product photograph available for the Briogeo Don't Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask
Best weekly mask
Briogeo Don't Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask
The straightforward weekly deep conditioner, built on oils and B-vitamins rather than a patented bond active. When hair is thirsty rather than structurally broken, this is the honest answer.
ITIt's a 10No product photograph available for the It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In Product
Best all-rounder leave-in
It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In Product
A spray leave-in that covers several jobs at once. The brand lists ten claimed benefits including detangling, frizz control and thermal protection, and the practical value is that it replaces two or three bottles.
Frequency, for all four
The AAD's guidance is to match wash frequency to hair type, from daily for straight hair with an oily scalp to as infrequently as every two to three weeks for dry, textured, curly or thick hair (AAD, everyday hair care). That range maps neatly onto the four routines above, with the fine ones at one end and the coarse ones at the other.
Whichever you are, the technique is the same: shampoo the scalp, condition the ends or the length depending on your type, detangle wet with a wide-tooth comb from the ends upward, and be gentler than feels necessary.
We have not used these products ourselves. They are chosen from what is in the formula, what those ingredients are documented to do, and whether that matches the problem this page is about — and every product below links to the manufacturer's own page so you can check the formulation claims yourself. The full method is here.