Strand&Suds

Hair Types & Porosity · Guide

A Hair Care Routine by Hair Type

Build the routine on two answers: how thick each strand is, and how readily it takes in water. Those two give you four routines, and they predict what works far better than curl type does.

By Janet H.Updated How we pick
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Two axes, four routines

Curl type is the variable everyone talks about and it is not the one that predicts what works. Two others do.

Strand thickness decides how much weight your hair can carry before it goes flat. Pull out a strand and roll it between your fingers: barely detectable is fine, like a piece of thread is coarse.

Porosity decides whether product gets in or sits on top — the test takes five minutes.

Those two give four combinations, and the routines below differ substantially from one another. Curl type then adjusts the styling products, not the underlying routine.

Fine + low porosity

The combination most likely to complain that nothing works. Hair rejects product because the cuticle is closed, and what does stay on the surface flattens it.

  • Light, properly cleansing shampoo, often — daily is fine.
  • Conditioner on the ends only, rinsed thoroughly.
  • A lightweight leave-in spray, ends only, small amount.
  • Mask every two weeks at most, with gentle warmth to get it in.
  • Clarify every two weeks. Non-negotiable for this combination.
  • Skip oils and butters entirely, or two drops on the very ends.

Fine + high porosity

Usually fine hair that has been bleached or heat-damaged. It drinks product but cannot carry weight, which is an awkward pair of constraints.

  • Gentle sulfate-free shampoo, on the scalp.
  • Conditioner on the ends, every wash.
  • A leave-in treatment rather than a rich cream — you want the repair without the weight.
  • Alternate protein and moisture weekly, and watch for stiffness — the balance is here.
  • One or two drops of a light oil on the ends only, to seal.
  • Clarify every three weeks.

Coarse + low porosity

Strong, healthy hair that is frustrating to work with. It can carry weight but will not absorb anything.

  • Normal shampoo, once or twice a week.
  • Conditioner along the length.
  • Weekly mask with heat — shower cap plus a warm towel.
  • Leave-in on soaking wet hair, while the cuticle is most receptive.
  • Lighter oils only — argan, grapeseed. Skip the butters.
  • Clarify monthly.

Coarse + high porosity

The thirstiest combination, common on coily hair and on anything heavily processed. It takes as much as you give it.

  • Co-wash or a very gentle sulfate-free shampoo, once a week or less.
  • Conditioner root to tip, generously.
  • Weekly mask, alternating protein and moisture.
  • Leave-in, then cream, then oil or butter to seal — all on soaking wet hair.
  • Reapply moisture between washes with a water spray bottle.
  • Clarify monthly, because heavy products build up even here.

From the picks

Three products that cover most of these

A weightless cleanser for the fine routines, a rich mask for the coarse ones, and a spray leave-in that works across all four because you control the dose.

VerbNo product photograph available for the Verb Ghost Shampoo

Best for fine hair

Verb Ghost Shampoo

A weightless cleanser built for fine hair rather than adapted to it. Verb states the full Ghost line is clinically proven to reduce frizz by 79% when used together, which is a claim about the range, not this bottle alone.

BriogeoNo product photograph available for the Briogeo Don't Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask

Best weekly mask

Briogeo Don't Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask

The straightforward weekly deep conditioner, built on oils and B-vitamins rather than a patented bond active. When hair is thirsty rather than structurally broken, this is the honest answer.

It's a 10No product photograph available for the It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In Product

Best all-rounder leave-in

It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In Product

A spray leave-in that covers several jobs at once. The brand lists ten claimed benefits including detangling, frizz control and thermal protection, and the practical value is that it replaces two or three bottles.

Frequency, for all four

The AAD's guidance is to match wash frequency to hair type, from daily for straight hair with an oily scalp to as infrequently as every two to three weeks for dry, textured, curly or thick hair (AAD, everyday hair care). That range maps neatly onto the four routines above, with the fine ones at one end and the coarse ones at the other.

Whichever you are, the technique is the same: shampoo the scalp, condition the ends or the length depending on your type, detangle wet with a wide-tooth comb from the ends upward, and be gentler than feels necessary.

We have not used these products ourselves. They are chosen from what is in the formula, what those ingredients are documented to do, and whether that matches the problem this page is about — and every product below links to the manufacturer's own page so you can check the formulation claims yourself. The full method is here.

Questions

Frequently asked

How do I know if my hair is fine or coarse?
Roll a single shed strand between your fingers. If you can barely feel it, fine. If it feels like thread, coarse. This is about one strand, not how much hair you have.
Does curl type not matter?
It matters for styling products — gels, creams, diffusing. It matters much less for the underlying wash-and-condition routine than thickness and porosity do.
Can my hair be two types at once?
Commonly. Roots are usually less porous than ends, and many heads have mixed curl patterns. Treat sections differently; that is normal.
How long before a new routine shows results?
Three or four washes to judge the routine, and a couple of months for the bigger change as damaged length grows out.

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Receipts

Sources

  1. 1.American Academy of Dermatology — Everyday hair care
  2. 2.True porosity measurement of hair: a new way to study hair damage mechanisms (PubMed)
  3. 3.American Academy of Dermatology — 6 curly hair tips from dermatologists
  4. 4.American Academy of Dermatology — Dermatologists' top tips for using leave-in conditioner

Claims about what an ingredient does are cited to dermatology bodies or published research. Claims about what a product contains are cited to the manufacturer's own page and labeled as the manufacturer's claim. Where the evidence is thin, we say so on the page rather than rounding it up. Read the full method.